Chasuble & Accessories
Stole, Maniple, Burse

China, circa 1850
96 x 66 cms

Black silk satin, polychrome silk embroidery; Lining: red silk taffeta. Provenance: abbé Paul Couturier, Lyon (1881 - 1953) collection

Hispano-Portuguese style chasuble to be used by Chinese clergy.

It is possible to find liturgical vestments dating from the 18th century designed specifically for European missionaries in China, initially Jesuits, then priests from Société des Missions étrangères de Paris, Lazarists, etc. and finally indigenous priests after 1725. The shape of the chasuble often relates to the country of origin: straight cut for the French, waisted for the Spanish and wide for the Portuguese. It is only the decoration that reflects local art, often flowers surrounding catholic symbols such as the Instruments of the Passion, the Sacred Heart and roses symbolising the Virgin Mary.

The shape of the chasuble differs, by its curve, from those worn in Macao and in the south of China, whereas the Indo-Portuguese cut is characterised by its broad flared back. It is covered by a large decoration of brightly coloured silk polychrome embroidery. On the back: two palms with a leafy stem laden with Indian flowers peeping out between sprays of Indian flowers. The front is embroidered with big Indian flowers and ears of corn. At chest level, a Sacred Heart crowned by a rather fanciful prelate hat in the middle of bunches of grapes surrounded by leafy stems with peonies and chrysanthemums.

The chasuble was perhaps ordered by (or for) the bishop of Macao, Dom Jeronimo José da Mata (1804-1862), designated incumbent Bishop of Altobos which he became and coadjutor of Bishop of Macao, who took over in 1845. An enterprising prelate, he reorganised, amongst other pastoral actions, the Saint Joseph of Macao seminary. It should be noted that the purple hat, with its purple chincord, does not comply